'88 XJS Rear discs

I've done a couple but no need to remove the whole rear end
From memory it's a case of dropping the bottom arms, drive shafts and calipers
The brake caliper mount has shims so it lines up with the disc,this will need working out what shims are needed when you fit the new discs
The discs have shims on the inside where mount to the diff
I also remember seeing shims on the outside of the disc where the drive shaft bolts onto
As long as you keep the shims in the correct order you'll be fine
Jag use 2 different diffs which decides if the whole axle assembly needs to be removed
If its the one that has holes in the discs to remove the drive shaft bolts this one can be done in situ.
If its not take the whole assembly out as some bolts are not accessible
Locking wire is used a lot on the bolts
It is a time consuming job, but not a bad one if you want to mince on it for a while
Tell the gaffer it will take 2 days, but you can do it in about 6 hours

Hi Gaz,

Don't know how similar it is but I have a 'British Leyland UK Ltd' workshop manual, dated 1978, which covers the XJ6/Daimler Sovereign but only with the 3.4 and 4.2 litre engines.

Happy to scan and email relevant pages if any good.

Regards

Dave

Thanks for the kind offer DaveC.

I've managed to borrow a Haynes manual for the car. It covers the Daimler and double 6 XJS 5.3. It's not the most helpful unfortunatly. Only a few paragraphs and pictures covering what autodata claims is a full day's work. It does make it sound simple!

From the online research I've done all the jags etc. of that era with the inboard discs are almost exactly the same. Some say to do it in place others say removing the rear assembly is the only way to go.

Started It at half 10 this morning. Spent about 20mins looking it over. Decided to take the lot out. It looked do-able in place but the handbrake calipers and lower claliper bolts looked a nightmare. There's a simple shroud covering the four inner shaft bolts to the disc which was easily pulled back and allowed plenty of access.

The cradle came out remarkably easily. No real awkward or seized bolts. Lowered the car into the workbench then undid the 8 bolts then lifted the car straight up. Getting the discs out was a little harder. Thought I had it ready to come out but soon realised the bottom arm was in the way! Compressed the springs and undid the lower bolts then had to knock the studs through slightly on the diff to remove the disc. So one new disc is on and all built up with a new caliper, pads and handbrake pads. Got to do it all over again on the other side tomorrow.

Should be all done quite easily tomorrow as I now know what I need to do to get the disc out. Then I've got two front wheel bearings, front discs and pads and a caliper to do. Also need to remove one of the headlights to adjust the aim. Is nothing easy on this car!?

Edit: Forgot to say. No holes in the old discs but new discs had them. Didn't notice any shims in the caliper mountings but the discs had shims (more like several gaskets) each side.

Locking wire between the two caliper bolts and on the front bush of the trailing arms. Also seen locking wire on the bolts that secure the diff to the cage I think. I will be using loctite.

Some of the purists may not approve !

Perhaps not ivor.

nitros44, I was waiting on someone saying that. Didn't think it would be you however!

It is not always possible to determine the presence of things like locking fluid so benefit of the doubt must be given.

Edit - see the note in the MoI

www.motinfo.gov.uk/htdocs/m4s03000502.htm